Our journey began on the R2, a vital artery connecting major cities across Zimbabwe. As we left the City of Bulawayo, our greeting anthem was a cheerful “Mabuyani!”—hello in TjiKalanga—setting the tone for our expedition into the heart of Kalanga culture. Our mission: to document the unique culinary traditions and heritage of the BaKalanga people.
Our guide and driver for this trip was Jeffrey Nleya, a Bulawayo-based local with a deep passion for rural tourism. A Malalume native, Jeffrey navigated the route with a blend of witty banter and masterful efficiency, a skill honed from years of traveling across Zimbabwe. We were comfortably chauffeured in a rugged Land Cruiser, generously provided by our partners at Elgiboh Travel Agency and Tours.
A Minimalist Approach to Immersive Filmmaking
At MMMC, we believe in the power of minimalism. Our travel ethos focused on being present and unburdened, with an itinerary that included only essential shooting gear, personal belongings, and minimal food in the form of light snacks. However, we also adhered to a cherished African tradition: you never arrive empty-handed. As a token of appreciation, we brought a small gift for our host family, the Nleyas (Ndazi). Our rewarding arrival in Malandume—now more commonly known by its corrupted form, Malalume—came with ample time to enjoy the quiet afternoon, watching the sun set over a serene marsh with a refreshing Busuku beer in hand.
From Rock Art to a Culinary Revelation
Our desire was to capture the full spectrum of Malandume’s beauty, from its food to the fascinating tales etched in ancient rock art. We hoped to find parallels with the renowned rock art we had previously seen in the Matobo region, just 35km from Bulawayo. The crew, driven by a love for filmmaking, battled the blazing sun, taking quick naps between takes to recharge. Lunch was a revelation: Hadza (a porridge made from pearl millet) served with Mahonja (Mopane delicacies), an authentic taste of the land.
After a long, hot, and dusty day of filming, we had nearly given up hope of finding the rock art sites. But as we were traveling back to our base, Jeffrey’s keen eye spotted a distant mountain. There, etched onto the rock face, were the important artifacts we had been searching for. We were thrilled by our discovery, which revealed that the art of the San people was not merely decorative. It had a profound purpose, capturing the values and attitudes of their culture with a remarkable sense of aesthetics, functionality, and meaning—particularly in how they interacted with their animals.
The Sweet Ending of a 73-Hour Journey
That evening, after an exhaustive day of shooting “The Taste of Kalanga Food” Documentary, we were served a dinner of Hadza and Tjihwabha—a type of biltong. I must say, this was the best biltong I have ever tasted. The delicious meal, coupled with the incredible journey across Bulilima and the great hospitality we received, left us feeling truly motivated.
If you want to discover the true craftsmanship behind authentic food, the area of Malalume offers an abundance of delicacies, including Homu (Amarula Fruit Seed), Gwisa (Pearl Millet), Makomo (Baobab), Matamba (Umkhemeswane), Ntungulu (Plum), Huku (Chicken), Mpudzi (Goat Meat), and Bususu (Porridge), to name just a few. For the adventurous, there are mountain climbing activities, with a hike to the famous Dombongulu Mountain promising beautiful views and scenery.
At the end of a jam-packed 73 hours, the lure of Busuku (Opaque Beer), the simple perfection of Tjihwabha, and the warmth of a crackling log fire provided a sweet and perfect ending to our documentation of a beautiful and enduring culture.
Malandume—Taboka!
